More than 10 years ago, shortly after my divorce, my then very small daughters had spent Christmas day and dinner with their mother and her family. I was putting together a small tray of goodies for me – blue cheese stuffed olives, smoked salmon on dark rye, capers and minced red onion, and some prosciutto.
Their mother dropped them off and we settled on the couch to watch some ice skating. The girls with (I thought) full bellies and cheeks rosey from the cold were snuggled up against me, one on each side, drowsy from the excitement of the day.
I ate an olive, then sampled the salmon.
As I munched, a small pink hand slowly reached in from the left onto the tray in my lap. My eldest took an olive. From the other side the younger one filched a bit of salmon on rye. I turned my head slowly and looked at one then the other. They looked back with the big eyes children have. I was so proud. They didn’t realize these were “grown up” tastes that most 6 and 7 year olds wouldn’t like.
“C’mon then!” I said.
They sat up and together we demolished that tray and another.
They were always good eaters, but this was a whole other level.
I still love smoked salmon and it’s very easy to make at home. I start with the best bit of fish I can get.
For the rub I again turn to my favorite book of all things cured, Charcuterie. It is based on sugar, salt, dark spices and sodium nitrate, Get yourself a copy for the exact recipe.
Rinse and pat dry the salmon, this was about 1.8 lbs.
Next you need a non-reactive (I used glass) pan just bigger than the fillet but deep enough to contain the brine that will be released, put down about a third of the salt/sugar/spice mixture.
Lay the fillet onto the mixture skin side down.
Add the rest of the cure using more on the fleshy end and less on the thin tail end.
Cover with plastic wrap (not foil!) and weight it down. You could cut a piece of cardboard just smaller than the pan for even weight distribution. Use foil wrapped bricks or cans. I used cans. Place in fridge for 36 hours. It will release a lot of liquid.
At this point take it out of the brine that has formed, give a rinse in cool water and pat dry – check that the thickest part is fully cured – it should not be squishy. I wasn’t happy with it so I put back in the brine for another day. Finally it was done.
Look at the before and after for the change in water content and color.
At this point you could slice and serve and I’m sure it would be delicious, but I wanted to add another layer of flavor .
I toasted equal amounts of coriander and black pepper in a pan over medium heat until fragrant, then ground them up in my spice grinder. Yes, this is traditional Pastrami seasonings!
A quick paint of molasses to help the spices ahdhere.
Sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over the cured filet.
Let it rest over night, and then cold smoke over fruit wood to your personal taste. I smoked this for about 8 hours. The salmon is on the left.
Remove from smoke, wrap in butcher paper and chill.
To serve cut very thin on a bias. Serve as described above. If the seasonings are too strong – wipe them off with the back of a knife before slicing.
This is silky, sexy, luxurious food. The salmon almost melts in your mouth. With homemade dark rye bread it is extraordinary.
Until next time, Eat Well and Keep Digging!
November 25, 2011
All this looks very much inviting.
By looking at your photos,
I’m getting hungry.
November 25, 2011
Thank you Gabriele! I hope you try it!
November 25, 2011
Your story about the children learning to like grown-up food brought back some happy memories. Both my daughters are now real Foodies, but there was a time when they would only eat breaded chicken nuggets.
November 25, 2011
Thanks Mark – good memories for me as well. While they certainly went through their “nugget” stage, as I didn’t provide it often, they learned to eat what I was eating.
November 26, 2011
Great “Coming of Age” story — from a Foodie’s perspective — and what a wonderful memory for the 3 of you! Speaking of wonderful, your smoked salmon recipe sounds incredible. I know that, once again, I’ll be surveying my yard tomorrow, looking for a suitable spot for a smoker. I love my home in Chicago but I sure do wish it had a larger yard!
November 26, 2011
ChgoJohn, it is one happy memory! I’m not sure they remember it or not. A deck or a drive way are sufficient to do the smoking. but for this “cold” smoke is a necessity.
November 27, 2011
This is why I like reading what you write. You teach me things that I know nothing about. Can’t say that I eat salmon–at all–ever, but you sure make me want to try it. My children have always been terribly picky eaters from the time they first started to eat real food. I never should have given them the baby food in a jar. I believe if I had made my own, they would have had more variety and would be more adventurous where food is concerned.
November 27, 2011
Thank you Becky! That’s high praise from someone who butchered her own deer! My girls ate canned baby food, but once they were eating solids I tried not to give them anything really different than what I was making. Not a believer in catering to the lowest common denominator,
November 28, 2011
Those are the special moments a parent never, ever forgets! Very sweet story. You’ve now spoiled them totally eating homemade bacon and now this!! Wow, I can only imagine how tasty this must be! As its still morning as I read this, I’m wishing I had some of this on my bagel!!
November 28, 2011
I spoiled them in the food department! Funny, I’m wishing I had a bagel!